1990 MAZDA MIATA

ROLL BAR

UUNDER THE HOOD

MY FIRST MIATA

BEFORE PICTURE

This car has been sold.

I bought the car in the midst of a Spec Miata conversion. The interior was gutted, it needed paint, a front fender, and an exhaust system. It had also been bumped in the rear, and he had a different bumper, deck lid, and license surround to repair it. It looks ok, but I think a little water drips into the trunk area when it rains. I know I could fix it with some silicon, it just hasnít been a priority. I paid $2500. It came with a 40,000 mile engine with the long snout crank. The valve cover on the new engine was broken, so I smoothed off all of the valve cover area that covers the timing belt. It put on a new one of those too, as well as a clutch when I put the low miles engine in. This was about 1500 miles ago. The odometer reads 156,000 miles. It came with a header and nothing else for exhaust. I acquired a stock exhaust from the cat back, and I had to get a cheap cat put in when I moved to Texas last year. I put Megasquirt in after I passed the inspection. I donít know how well it will pass again. I had planned to make it pretty lean just before I went in. If you havenít used the Megasquirt software, you will love it. Itís very easy to use, and there are all kinds of people who will help you if you should have any trouble. It runs in open loop, which is how most guys run it. It hurts your mileage a bit, but it runs strong and you can certainly add that functionality in MegaTune. The Megasquirt piggybacks off the stock computer, and it could be run like stock if you put the stock injectors back in.

I put a new windshield in it and had it painted with single stage Mariner Blue. I had a new rear window sewn in and painted the top with SEM vinyl top paint to blacken it up. It turned out real nice. The trim in the interior is decent. The door sill trim and front kick panels could fit a little better. I bought a new stereo surround because that is the important one. The gauge surround clips are bad, but it looks ok. I TIG welded in the cage from 1-5/8Ē tubing. Itís a unique design, and gives better visibility than the Hard Dog bars. As you can see the support bars donít go up to the top bar, but the distance from the cross brace to the top is small. I did this to get maximum height from the cross bar to increase chassis stiffness with the petty bar. With the strength of the tubing I used, I am very confident that it would hold up under a roll over situation. I have had this car on the track at MSR South of Fort Worth about 5 times. The seats are no name, but are very light and supportive. The Corbeau harnesses are new. The seats are fixed in position, and I have the old seats, but they are in rough shape.

The car came from the North, and it did see some salt. I didnít originally come from the North. This is important, because outsiders are more critical of this than people who are used to it. There was cancerous rust on the passengers side floor board, but none in the rest of the body. If there was, I wouldnít have bought it. I welded the floorboard, and at the same time installed the Flyin Miata chassis stiffeners. Probably the best money you can spend on these cars. Further, I added the petty bar to the cage. This is a very rigid car! If you look at the suspension, you can tell it has seen salt, but itís the kind that makes the black chassis paint flake off, thatís all. It came with Bilstein coil overs and very stiff Arospeed springs with adjustable collars. It was set up for Spec Miata. I put Racing beat race springs on it and in comparison it felt like a Buick. Thatís how stiff the other springs were. I still have them if you decide you only want to track the car. I also put the Flyin Miata sway bars on front and rear. The car is very well balanced. The bushings need replaced if you want to change camber often. It is set up well for most tracks, but fine tuning would require new bushings, as most would. The bolt gets fused to the bushing. Iíve heard itís common on a lot of these cars, even in Texas. I put new Rota 15Ē wheels on it and Toyo RA1 tires. These tires are amazing! I would consider them to be at 60% tread life.

I canít stress enough the value of a car being sorted out at the track. The track is severe duty, and things that will last years on the street will let go at the track. All the fasteners that were not tight enough for the track have already informed me of such, and they have been taken care of. The first time I took it out here in Texas, it got pretty warm. I put in a new radiator and made sure as much fresh air was forced into the radiator as possible. This car can immediately be run on a road course.

The trailer hitch is made from a Hidden Hitch for a Saturn. It uses a slim draw bar receiver that has a Reese plastic cover, rather than the square receiver tube. The longitudinal bar is formed around the muffler. I dare say itís one of the sleekest hitches youíll ever see on a Miata. Iím pretty proud of it. Excellent for pulling a tire trailer to the track.

I replaced the AC condenser, evacuated the system, and put R12 back in it last Summer. It held a charge for about a month. I figure with a leak that slow, the R134a kit I bought with o-ring conditioner and dye might just fix it, and if it doesnít, I will be able to see where the problem is. I borrowed a Snap-on vacuum pump from a guy at work and I have been planning on taking care of this, but it hasnít been a priority. I have also been tempted to take the whole system out for weight. : ) Also, I put a new battery in it last year.

Iím asking $3700, and the Torsen and turbo stuff Iíll throw in for an extra $500 only if you're buying the car. I try to be brutally honest in disclosing everything. It usually hurts me, but thatís better than hurting someone else. I am in Highland Village 20 minutes north of the DFW airport. Cell phone is 616-304-0803.

 

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